We left Christchurch, New Zealand on Oct 20 on Fiji Airways for Nadi, a city on Fiji’s main island. Fiji is an archipelago consisting of 300 plus islands in the South Pacific Ocean and we were heading for Wayasewa Island for the next seven days.Our flight landed in Nadi at 5:30PM. Our host, Bill, met us and drove us to Lautoka Wharf in Lautoka (~40 min drive) where we waited for almost two hours for his son to arrive with a helper to pick us up.Bill’s dad is the chief of the village, and Bill is the 13th generation on the island. He has 4 kids: 24, 23, 18, 17. We were waiting for Api, the oldest, to arrive with the boat we were taking to Wayasewa Island. Last week, Bill purchased a new wider boat with a 75 hp outboard motor, so the trip would be fast (about 1.5 hrs).From Lautoka Wharf (bottom right) to our homestay on Wayasewa (red star on the top left). Once we left the wharf, it was pitch black. Good thing it was a calm night! Bill and Api navigated with their phones, using a flashlight as our navigation lights. We could hear them discussing and pointing, and at one point, had an abrupt change in direction. We also had to stop partway to refill the gas – Api siphoned the gas with the motor idling. In the dark, we could see bioluminescence in our wake.
Bill assured us everything was good and that this is normal for them. Originally, there was only one village on the island, then there was a big landslide in 1985. At that point, the one village split into three with approximately 150 people per village. Hurricane season is Sep to Feb and the island is on the hurricane path. Bill monitors the forecast and takes guests back to mainland two days before a hurricane hits. [Good to know!]
On arrival, we were fed a delicious dinner of rice with chicken curry, and fresh pineapple for dessert.
This is our home – the roof is tin and it’s incredibly loud when coconuts fall and roll!!
It’s one giant room with 4 beds (2 doubles and 2 singles). Their water comes from rain and springs in the mountains, and is stored in large tanks; their electricity is from solar panels, which were subsidized by the government.
Neil and LL’s bedNolan’s single, bathroom through the doorLittles shared a double across from the parentsPrivate toilet and shower (an open pipe sticking out of the wall). There’s only cold water and no lights in the shower, so the nightly showers were quick!Another view of our spacious home for the week. Top left, you can see our GravityWorks Water Filter System hanging from a beam. With 5 people, one toilet, and an 1.5 hour boat ride to the main island in good weather, we decided to be safe and only drink our own filtered water.Our first breakfast of toast, oatmeal, coconut rice, mango jam, papaya, fiji apple. Lots of instant coffee and hot water for tea.Our view from the dining area. All the vegetables and fruits that we eat are from the island. During covid, they were very isolated and had to be completely self sufficient. It was many months between trips to the main island. When we weren’t out doing activities, we hung out in the dining area – playing cards, chatting with other guests, and reading. There were two women from Australia who were there for close to 10 days, a couple from Ireland who taught us how to play a new card game called ‘Dutch’, and a couple from Texas. The Irish and American couples only stayed for a couple of nights before moving on.Sara (Bill’s daughter) bringing in the fish he caught. Bill or Api fished almost daily, and they use handline fishing, which is a very common and traditional form of fishing. Fresh fish is delicious!!Paula, Bill’s wife, showing us the cassava that was harvested for lunch.The plate with the greenish cubes is lumi. It’s a wispy seaweed the villagers collect, and it’s cooked with tuna, coconut milk, ginger, and garlic until it becomes jelly-like. Every meal was accompanied by fresh fruit, picked when ripe. There are seven different types of mangoes growing on the island. One breakfast consisted of oatmeal, pastry topped with custard, and papaya.Bill, his daughter Sara, granddaughter (Api’s daughter), and his wife, Paula. This is where the family eats their meals, their home is through the door behind Sara. It’s just around the corner from the dining area. The kitchen where all the meals are prepared is behind them.This is a pot of dhal for dinner one night. Since Fiji was once a British colony and many Indians were brought here to work, their cuisine has Indian influences, which includes various curries.Can you imagine hauling that washing machine in their little fishing boat from the main island?Every day after school, the village kids showed up outside our home calling “Nolan! Lara! Felix!” Once, Little Bill, one of the kids, threw a “rock” to Nolan that squirted him when he caught it. It turned out to be a sea cucumber!Most afternoons, our kids also spent time helping the village kids out with their math homework. High tide on the beach.Low tide on the same beach.
As you can imagine, there were lots of geckos around. To escape a predator or perceived threat, they detach their tails, a process called autotomy. This article describes how it works. The tail of the gecko can regenerate in as little as a few weeks.
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3 thoughts on “Homestay on Wayasewa Island”
Looks like paradise. Back to the basics, but lots of challenges. Should stay as lifelong memories.
Looks like paradise. Back to the basics, but lots of challenges. Should stay as lifelong memories.
Lifelong memories for sure!
A different way of life. How do the kids remember this week now they are back in “civilization”.