While in Seoul, we took a tour to visit the DMZ – an eye-opening and sobering experience. On the drive, our tour guide educated us about the DMZ and some of the history of Korea. He pointed out that South Koreans are educated in school about their history; and again during their mandatory time in the army (for males). These are the highlights of Korean history from his (and South Korea’s) perspective.
~late 1300s to 1910: Joseon Dynasty. One Korea, called Goryeo, based on Confucius ideology.
1910: Japan annexed Korea.
1945: Soviets enter northern Korea, and with the surrender of Japan and collapse of Nazi Germany, Korea is divided into two occupation zones: the south, administered by the United States and north of the 38th parallel by Soviet Union.
1948: two governments are established, one for South Korea, the other for North Korea. The guide stressed numerous times during the tour that they were all Koreans, and many, himself included, had family members split between the north and the south. In 1948, North Korea is significantly stronger than South Korea as it was closer to its allies (Russia and China), and was by the sea; also, industry and resources were more prevalent in North Korea. One example he cited was that North Korea had 242 tanks while South Korea had none.
1950: June 25, North Korea (supported by China and the Soviet Union) invades South Korea (supported by the United States and United Nations), and takes Seoul in 3 days. The North Koreans committed genocide on the South Koreans. For example, 2000 people in a hospital were killed because if they were in a big hospital, they were wealthy and all rich people were to be killed. By August, refugees have fled to Busan; and the UN forces are pushed to the southeast corner of the peninsula. In September, UN forces launch a surprise attack on Incheon (on the west coast, close to Seoul), and push north, causing China to enter the war with over a million soldiers.
1953: Armistice Agreement is signed by North Korea, South Korea, China, and the United Nations (represented by the United States) and the DMZ is established. The guide emphasized that the Agreement did not signify the end of the war – the war continues.
The kids said the views along the walk reminded them of Canada.
A sign further along explained:
Freedom Bridge takes its name from the return of 12,773 prisoners of war in 1953 in the first exchange of prisoners after the signing of the armistice agreement that ended the Korean War.
Two railroad bridges on the Gyeongui Line originally spanned the Imjingang River side-by-side. Both were destroyed by bombing; only the piers remained. To enable exchange of prisoners of war, the west bridge was rebuilt as a temporary structure over the original piers. The repatriates were take to Freedom Bridge by trucks and they crossed the bridge on foot.
there was traffic using this toll gate. A year later, it was shut down and there’s been no traffic since.
North Korea calls it ‘Peace Village’ while the South Koreans call it ‘Propaganda Village’, created to show the wonderful life of North Koreans. Photo by Nolan B. 
Guard tower with North Korean guard. 
Land mines are placed between the fences at the border. Used to be very noisy here as North Korea played propaganda speeches and South Korea played back KPop music, specifically gangnam music. Photo by Nolan B. 
View of Kaesong, which contains an industrial zone shared by North Korea (supplying the manpower) and South Korea (supplying money and technology). 
View of damaged high rise in Kaesong when the North Koreans destroyed the inter-Korean liaison office in 2020. Photo by Nolan B. 
Looks like lots going on but is it real?
The first tunnel, found by a search team in 1974, was 25-45 m below ground, 1.2 m high and 3.5 km long. It had concrete, rails and a rail cart, numerous North Korean goods; the digging strokes led from the north.
The second tunnel was found a year later when villages heard sounds underground. A drilling machine was used to search for water pockets. It dug 45 holes, 7 of which went through to the tunnel. This tunnel was 50 m deep, 2 m high and 3.5 km long; it had a massive assembling area and its southern exit is divided into 3 directions. It’s about 5 times larger than Tunnel 1, and it’s thought that 30,000 armed soldiers can pass per hour, including vehicles.
The third tunnel was not a surprise – a North Korean engineer defected in 1974 and informed the South Koreans of the general location of the tunnel based on a poplar tree in the DMZ. The South Koreans installed 107 PVC cylinder pipes filled with water every 2 m along the presumed invasion route from the North. 4 years later, one of the pipes shot water in the air, and after installing 5 more in the area and subsequently digging an interception tunnel, the South Koreans were able to find the tunnel. This tunnel is arched, 73 m deep, 2 m high, and ran 1.6 km long. We were able to walk 265 m into this tunnel (no photos allowed). The guide made a point of asking two questions: “Who built the tunnel?” and “Who’s making money from the tunnel now?”
The fourth tunnel was found in 1990. This tunnel is 145 m deep, 1.7 m high, and 2 km long. The suspicion is that the area is riddled with tunnels.
In all cases, North Korea insisted that the tunnels are made by South Korea. South Korea cites direction of explosives, digging strokes, and evidence of North Korean goods as proof that North Korea dug the tunnels.
On our departure, Nolan wondered what the North Korean tour would sound like. Excellent question!
Very informative. Thanks for sharing. My sister’s mother-in-law wrote a memoir which includes how she escaped from North Korea and eventually made her way to Montreal. Our life in Canada is so easy.